A paean to Baraka

Many of you may remember the restaurant Baraka at Oakland Park Blvd. and A1A in Ft. Lauderdale.

A good friend reminded me of a meal that we shared several years ago, and I thought that it might be appropriate to reflect upon its ambiance and, most notably, its food.

While picking up a 50th Anniversary copy of M.F.K. Fisher's tome The Art of Eating today at Books and Books, the cashier and I were lamenting the state of eating/dining in the U.S.. Both of us had studied/lived in Europe and have fond memories of leisurely dinners with friends, and outstanding - though simple - food. As many of you know, eating elsewhere is dining; all too often, eating here is feeding. Although I try, most of my evenings here are interrupted by dashes to Mincha and/or Ma'ariv, or impatience or eager waiters. These of course are worthy reasons (much more important), but still... . Shabbos is relaxing, but all too often everyone, including myself, is exhausted after the week. And while I am truly blessed to know so many wonderful cooks, and as I so often rant, how is it possible to eat, and enjoy, so much food? Of course, eating/dining in the 18th and 19th centuries often involved gluttonous affairs, but these took entire evenings - not an hour! Alas...

Perhaps it was because one had to be prepared in advance - there were no minynim nearby - but evenings at Baraka were never rushed; or perhaps it was the long drive that encouraged happy trekkers to linger just a bit longer.

I have rarely experienced a restaurant - incl. non-kosher - that was as consistently good at innovation. While the ambiance was not formal, the food and presentation was always, in my experience, outstanding. Remember the obligatory cocktail? Outstanding! And although another friend still decries the unexpected $45 price tag of the Dover Sole special, it was a masterpiece to see, and from his reaction very good to eat as well.

Although everyone would probably agree that the dairy incarnation was superior to the re-incarnation as the entire Bessie, they kept up the standard and I was never disappointed, until they closed.

Leisurely evenings, good friends, good conversation helped with good wine, a casual and cozy environment, and outstanding food... What more could one hope for? (If any of you know where the owner or chef are now, please let me know!)

If it is also your quest to find true "dining" let me know, and you may also be interested in the mission of the Slow Food organization - www.slowfood.com or www.slowfoodusa.org

Happy (slow) Eating!