Tuesday, May 17, 2005

Le Marais Express

Well, happily, the rumors were true, and a simplified version of my favorite restaurant - Le Marais (Times Square) - has opened on Miami Beach; although the format will change over time.

http://lemaraismiami.com/

Currently, the restaurant occupies a space on the first floor of an older hotel, which will remain open until Pesach 2006. At that time, the entire building will be renovated to create an exclusive, kosher boutique hotel and a full blown restaurant to be known as Le Marais Hotel and Restaurant. But that's not why you're reading this...

To put it simply, the evening, shared with two close friends, was not disappointing. The decor is, as the restaurant's web page puts it - "rustic"; it's very simple, but not unattractive. Just give me a white table cloth and good food... For those of you who are looking for more, additions will slowly be made to decor, menu and wine list.

Ambiance: As mentioned, simple. A radio station was playing over speakers, which one of my cohorts asked to be lowered. I'm going to suggest some classic and contemporary French music, and Jazz (tres francais!). Other than that...think basic bistro.

Food: Excellent! All three of us thought it superb. We started with the soupe du jour - cold cucumber; it was very nice though I would have preferred it slightly more chilled, and perhaps with a garnish of two transparent slices of the main ingredient, skillfully cut on a mandoline?

The three entrees - steak au poivre, maigre de canard and entrecote were all excellent, and cooked as requested. I would have preferred the steak to be slightly more encrusted with pepper, though most might not (next time I'll request more). The duck, which I rarely order as it's never done very well, was superb!, just really good!! The entrecote's Bearnaise sauce was so good that you'll never want to say, "Don't be saucy with me Bearnaise!". The pommes frites - very good.

Desserts were mousse au chocolate, tarte tatin and creme caramel. The mousse and creme were as they should be; the tarte tatin also as it should be, though rarely is - excellent. Hopefully, soon, there will also be a creme brulee!

Wine was a very nice Merlot/Cabernet blend from Teal Lake. Currently, approximately 20 wines are available covering a respectable range; the selection will expand in time for next season.

Service: Friendly and professional, but relaxed - no pretension here (thank G-d). We never had to ask for anything; all was taken care of quietly and unobtrusively.

Prices: comparable to N.Y., better value than Juliette - IMHO.

N.B. Gratuity is included, which I prefer.


This is a bistro with a no-fuss menu that's very good. You'll be glad to know that it's open noon to midnight, Sun. - Thurs., and noon - 3 p.m. on Fridays; there will be hours motzei Shabbos in the Winter. Now, no problem finding a restaurant for post-concert dinners or after late flights!

The management will also work with individuals to put together special menus for groups. And, July 1st, the restaurant will begin an experiment with pre-paid Shabbos meals.

Try it! I'm sure that you won't be disappointed. And if you need a dining companion...

Le Marais Express
4210 Collins Ave.
Miami Beach
305-538-9455


Supervision: OU

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